The dangers of big wave surfing

Big wave surfing is not for the faint-hearted. The sheer size and power of these waves make the sport one of the most dangerous in the world. Surfers who take on these giants face a range of life-threatening risks, from violent wipeouts to unpredictable ocean conditions.

One of the biggest dangers is the force of the waves themselves. When a surfer falls, they can be held underwater for an extended period, sometimes getting pushed down more than 15 metres. The pressure at these depths can make it difficult to resurface, and multiple waves in quick succession can leave even the most experienced surfers gasping for air.

Another major risk is the impact of the water. A crashing wave can hit with the force of a car accident, slamming surfers into the ocean floor or tossing them around like rag dolls. This can lead to serious injuries, including broken bones, concussions, and even spinal damage.

Equipment failure is also a constant concern. Leashes can snap, boards can break, and jet skis used for tow-in surfing can malfunction, leaving surfers stranded in treacherous waters. Without the right gear and safety measures, a simple mistake can quickly turn into a life-threatening situation.

Beyond the physical dangers, big wave surfers must also contend with unpredictable ocean conditions. Rogue waves, strong currents, and sudden weather changes can make an already dangerous situation even worse. Even the most skilled surfers must respect the power of the ocean and be prepared for anything.

“You have to be comfortable with the idea that you might not make it back,” says Australian big wave surfer Mark Mathews. “Every time you paddle out, you’re putting yourself in a situation where things can go wrong very quickly.”

Despite these risks, big wave surfers continue to push the limits, drawn by the thrill of riding some of the most powerful waves on the planet. But for those who take on these giants, preparation, experience, and respect for the ocean are essential for survival.

Legendary big wave surfers

Throughout the history of big wave surfing, a handful of fearless individuals have cemented their place as legends of the sport. These surfers have not only ridden some of the biggest waves ever recorded but have also pushed the boundaries of what is possible in the ocean.

One of the most iconic figures in big wave surfing is Laird Hamilton. Known for pioneering tow-in surfing, Hamilton revolutionised the sport by using jet skis to access waves that were previously considered unrideable. His legendary ride at Teahupo’o in Tahiti, where he took on a wave so massive and dangerous that it was dubbed the “heaviest wave ever ridden,” remains one of the most famous moments in surfing history.

Another name that stands out is Garrett McNamara, who made headlines when he rode a record-breaking 24-metre wave at Nazaré, Portugal. His fearless approach to tackling some of the most unpredictable waves in the world has earned him a reputation as one of the greatest big wave surfers of all time.

Australia has also produced its fair share of big wave icons. Mark Mathews, a Sydney-born surfer, has built a career on charging some of the most dangerous waves on the planet, including the infamous slabs of Shipstern Bluff in Tasmania. His ability to navigate these treacherous waves with precision and control has made him one of the most respected figures in the sport.

Another Australian legend, Ross Clarke-Jones, has spent decades chasing the biggest swells across the globe. Known for his fearless attitude and deep knowledge of ocean conditions, Clarke-Jones has been a pioneer in big wave surfing, particularly at locations like Pedra Branca and The Right, where only the most experienced surfers dare to paddle out.

These surfers, along with many others, have helped shape the evolution of big wave surfing. Their dedication, skill, and willingness to take on the ocean’s most powerful waves continue to inspire the next generation of surfers looking to push the limits of the sport.

Training and techniques for riding giants

Riding waves of such immense size and power requires more than just courage—it demands rigorous training, precise technique, and an intimate understanding of the ocean. Big wave surfers dedicate countless hours to physical conditioning, breath-hold training, and mental preparation to ensure they are ready for the challenges that come with tackling waves that can reach heights of over 20 metres.

Physical fitness is a cornerstone of big wave surfing. Surfers engage in intense strength and endurance training to build the muscle power needed to paddle into waves and maintain control in turbulent conditions. Core strength is particularly crucial, as it helps surfers stay balanced on their boards while navigating steep drops and powerful barrels. Many athletes incorporate weight training, swimming, and high-intensity interval workouts into their routines to enhance their overall fitness.

Breath-hold training is another essential aspect of preparation. Wipeouts in big wave surfing can leave surfers trapped underwater for extended periods, sometimes for multiple wave cycles. To increase their lung capacity and ability to stay calm under pressure, surfers practice controlled breathing techniques, static apnea exercises, and underwater drills. Freediving training is also common, as it helps surfers develop the ability to manage oxygen efficiently and remain composed in high-stress situations.

Beyond physical conditioning, mastering the right techniques is key to successfully riding giant waves. Positioning is critical—surfers must read the ocean carefully to anticipate where a wave will break and time their takeoff perfectly. A mistimed entry can result in a brutal wipeout or being caught inside by the next massive set. Once on the wave, maintaining a low centre of gravity and using subtle weight shifts allows surfers to control their speed and direction while navigating the face of the wave.

Many of the world’s biggest waves are nearly impossible to paddle into, which is why tow-in surfing has become a vital technique for tackling extreme conditions. Using jet skis, surfers are towed into waves at high speeds, allowing them to catch waves that would otherwise be unreachable. This method requires precise teamwork between the surfer and the jet ski driver, as well as the ability to handle extreme acceleration and rapid transitions from tow-in to riding.

Mental preparation is just as important as physical training. Big wave surfers must develop a mindset that allows them to stay calm and focused in life-threatening situations. Many athletes use visualisation techniques, meditation, and controlled breathing exercises to manage fear and maintain composure when faced with towering walls of water. Confidence, experience, and respect for the ocean all play a role in ensuring that surfers make the right decisions in critical moments.

Safety is always a top priority, and surfers rely on specialised equipment to help them survive in extreme conditions. Inflatable vests have become a game-changer, providing buoyancy and assisting surfers in resurfacing after heavy wipeouts. Helmets, impact suits, and reinforced surfboards are also commonly used to minimise the risk of injury. Additionally, big wave surfers often work in teams, with safety crews on jet skis ready to assist in case of an emergency.

Training for big wave surfing is a lifelong commitment, requiring dedication, discipline, and an unwavering passion for the sport. Whether paddling into monstrous waves at Jaws, charging the slabs of Shipstern Bluff, or taking on the unpredictable peaks of Nazaré, the world’s best big wave surfers rely on their preparation and skill to push the limits of what is possible in the ocean.

The dangers and challenges of big wave surfing

Big wave surfing isn’t just about chasing the biggest swell—it’s about surviving it. When you’re dropping into a 60-foot monster, there’s no room for hesitation. One wrong move and you’re getting rag-dolled by a force of nature that doesn’t care how good you are.

Wipeouts are brutal. We’re talking hold-downs that can last over 30 seconds, where you’re tossed around like a fishing lure in a cyclone. The pressure at those depths can make your lungs feel like they’re about to burst, and if you panic, you’re done. That’s why breath training is just as important as board skills.

Then there’s the impact zone—the place where waves unload their full fury. Get caught there, and you’re in for a beating. The only way out? Stay calm, conserve energy, and hope the ocean gives you a break.

And let’s not forget the gear. A standard surfboard won’t cut it. Big wave boards, or “guns,” are built for speed and stability, but even they can snap like a twig under the wrong wave. That’s why surfers wear inflatable vests—because sometimes, the only way back to the surface is with a little extra help.

Oh, and the wildlife. Ever thought about what’s lurking below? When you’re out in deep water, you’re in shark territory. Most of the time, they’re not interested, but every surfer has had that moment where something big moves beneath them, and suddenly, the wave isn’t the scariest thing out there.

At the end of the day, big wave surfing is a battle—against the ocean, against fear, and sometimes, against your own limits. But for those who take it on, there’s no greater rush.

Legendary big wave surfers and their achievements

Big wave surfing has produced some absolute legends—riders who’ve stared down the ocean’s fury and come out on top. These surfers don’t just chase swells; they redefine what’s possible on a board.

Take Laird Hamilton, for example. The bloke practically invented modern tow-in surfing, charging waves that were once thought unrideable. His infamous Millennium Wave at Teahupo’o? Pure madness. That thing looked more like a liquid avalanche than a wave, and he rode it like it was a Sunday cruise.

Then there’s Garrett McNamara, the man who tamed Nazaré. He set a world record by riding a 100-foot monster off the Portuguese coast—basically surfing a moving skyscraper. Nazaré isn’t just big; it’s unpredictable, with waves that can swallow you whole. But McNamara made it his playground.

Australia’s own Mark Mathews deserves a mention too. The bloke has taken on some of the heaviest slabs on the planet, including Cape Fear at Sydney’s Botany Bay. That wave is a mutant—thick, fast, and breaking over a shallow rock shelf. One mistake there, and you’re meeting the reef up close. But Mathews thrives in that chaos.

And of course, there’s Maya Gabeira, who’s smashed records and barriers alike. She holds the record for the biggest wave ever surfed by a woman—73.5 feet at Nazaré. After nearly drowning there in 2013, she came back stronger, proving that resilience is just as important as skill in this sport.

These surfers aren’t just athletes—they’re pioneers, pushing the limits of what humans can do on water. They’ve taken beatings, broken bones, and faced wipeouts that would make most people quit. But they keep coming back, because for them, there’s nothing else like it.